Havana transportation: creativity demonstrated
Apart from the classic cars as taxis, there is a lot of other creative transportation of people and goods to be seen in Havana
It was nine years since I had made the my last of many previous trips to Cuba, and the roads certainly hadn’t improved, as with other infrastructure – but the creativity applied to transport was just as innovative.
Bus transportation now has much improved feature in Havana from the era of the Camelo, seen here in front of the picture theatre.
The Camelo, as you can see, was hardly built to be a bus, and riding on a packed Camelo was an experience to be endured, not enjoyed.
They were reputed to be able to carry 300 people and were a hunting ground for pickpockets and when packed, they were stifling hot.
Since 2008, Camelos have been replaced by Chinese buses but before that were a typical site in Havana, starting from the bus station in Vedado for all major suburbs.
Pulled by semi trailers of different brands and types, they varied in colour.
Behind this turquoise Camelo you can see a water truck - a Pipa
In 2011 they were still of the same vintage and still valiantly keeping Havana in water.
Water comes to many houses by truck because of the decayed infrastructure. To put in perspective, the main aqueduct, the Albear, was built in the 19th century to support a population of 400,000 and there are about 2 ½ million now living in Havana.
Water can run out when you are in the shower. I stay in an apartment so my Cuban friends can come and visit (which they could not do if I were in a hotel - and I am given to making dinner for 12 to 14 people at a time - and, of course, dancing with them till dawn!). In my apartment - as with theirs - it was not uncommon to have fully shampoo-lathered hair and have the water stop. This meant going to a window or balcony and calling out for more – which came if they had more, and someone would change the tanks!
Of course if you think about household uses of water, which to most of us don’t as we take it for granted – some things are more important to your dignity than others – like flushing the toilet – and so a little pre-planning can be useful.
I was really glad that I had anticipated running out of water during my last big fiesta and dinner party for 17 people – and had a bucket of water on standby when the inevitable happened and just when a guest REALLY wanted the toilet to flush, the water ran out.
Behind this crowded Camelo photographed in 2001, you can see the ingenious method of making purchases from street vendors. You just lower your bucket on a pulley and send down the money and then haul up your goods.
Saves lots of flights of stairs!
The queuing system for all public transportation is brilliant. People stand around in a complete jumble, yet when the transportation arrives, ferry or bus, everyone falls into strict order of arrival. This is accomplished in a typical laid back Latin manner.
Unlike the apparent British love of standing in a queue – they just want to know who to follow. Therefore, when you arrive at the stop, you call out to ask who is last. The last person answers “Me” – and all you have to do in future is keep an eye on that person.
Such sanity in the heat! You can wander off and get an ice, chat with friends, walk over and examine the flowers – and never lose your place!
But when it comes to transportation, there is no shortage of innovation. This family had worked out how to get the armchair transported and it is balanced precariously on the motorcycle side car - held on by the young lad perched on the seat behind Dad!
A much wider range of goods are now being transported through the streets since the government has opened up the opportunity for people to start their own self-employment, and street trade flourishes.
Whether it is a load of onions and a box of oranges…
…or a more varied selection of vegetables…
…or thick sausages stored beneath a cooling plastic cover as they lie in their cardboard box…
…to be relished by residents of Central Havana, the creative adaption of all sorts of structures with wheels attached, never ceased to gain my respect.
Sometimes the load is just a bit too much and requires a short break before it can be trundled over the pot-hole filled streets to its destination – as with this load.
For passengers, the range of cars is varied and their condition even more variable.
Some are quite beautifully restored…although they may reside beside houses that are not.
This classic Dodge in the restoration area of Havana’s Old City…
…has had both money and talent applied to its restoration…
..while other classic cars run loudly - and are awaiting a paint job.
Some are a source of constant challenge to maintain…but there is always the opportunity to improvise a service bay from Old Town drainage.
It is not always that you can plan for service, and broken down cars are often to be seen.
In our case it was something of an epidemic of flat tyres.
I never saw a tyre changed so quickly or with such good humour, as smart white shirt was hung on the open front car door and a well practiced tyre change took place.
We had been nursing this tyre along by stopping to fill it with air at every opportunity, but stayed visiting friends a bit long – and it was very flat on return.
The front one on the near side went flat shortly afterwards, but that was quite without hope, as the steel from within the tread had actually finally emerged from the rubber itself. There is only so much re-tread that one can successfully implement before the amount of rubber within which the steel “belting” sits is less than the steel itself.
Now THAT is wear and tear!
With another friend, we peered through the taped windscreen after a night-time accident had left a head imprint in the glass, and took every opportunity to find a new one – not an easy job where shopping goes by local knowledge and word-of-mouth. No yellow pages here!
On another occasion we rode in one of the many “Jeepies” – unfortunately it was quite dark so I just have photos of the inside that give some “feel” of the challenges of owning a vehicle in a country where even if you had the money, finding the right parts needed could be a lifetime job.
The seats reminded me of when I learned to scuba dive in Australia and wore a wetsuit hood, my brother’s rugby shirt and rugby socks (so the borrowed flippers would fit me), and an old army webbing belt with lead ingots (melted down lead poured into the hollows of bricks to cool) attached for weights.
Two little boys stood nearby and were having a debate: “It’s a girl”. “No. It’s not a girl…”
I finally settled the dispute: “It’s a girl in a bikini under all this”
I was streamlined in my wetsuit hat just from the top of my head to the neck – and the Jeepie seats were similarly streamlined – but underneath it all, it ran like a tank!
Of course there are modern vehicles – mostly for tourists, but also some registered to locals.
This Lada beside a modern bus in Boyeros district of Havana is not that aged, but I loved the stickers stating that it was “immortal”.
As I took this photo I noticed the turkey seller in the middle of the road, (look on the left of the photo)strategically placed where everyone slows down to go over the railway crossing.
Types of motorcycle vary from the classic to the more modern…
..and there are hundreds of Pedalos whose drivers are always asking people if they need a taxi.
Many come with a sound system that blast the most popular hits from Reggaeton at full volume, no matter what the hour.
This driver was waiting at the busy intersection by the Capitol Building and you can well see the Pedalo construction, with two sturdy wheels at the rear…
..and a clever welding job for the seat, front wheel and to hold the roof on, as seen here against the little bumble-bee fibre-glass taxi.
These bumble-bees beetle around the city centre of the Old Town , but are official, and therefore relatively standard and not nearly as much fun.
The roof of a Pedalo is a piece of creativity in itself.
Those I saw from my balcony in central Havana varied.
Most had a similar shape and size – but the materials from which they were made were showed the official/unofficial "re-cycling" that is continually going on in Cuba.
Taking a Pedalo can be quite a good option now it is legal for tourists to ride them – for they fit between the tilted road block barrages that are common in the Old City of Havana, Havana Vieja – but negotiate your price before you ride.
If not you may be left to set your own price as to what is fair - and what you think is fair is usually way higher than what the price would have been – as I discovered after riding with my Cuban friends along a route which I had previously taken alone.
But there are many ways to get from one point in your local suburb to another.
This mule cart..
... nearly ran me over as I was taking a photo and looking in the other direction. It quickly disappeared around the corner of the barrio.
…and crossing Plaza de la Revolución – Revolution Square - between the vehicles, another mule cart trundled along, carrying bales of hay.
Plaza de la Revolución – Revolution Square - is a something you must see, but for me it is one of the less attractive tourist destinations in Havana.
Most people make the effort just to see the famous Che Guevara tribute on the wall of the Ministry of the interior, with his famous quote Hasta la Victoria Siempre (Forever Onwards Towards Victory)
On the Square, the Jose Marti Memorial tower (109m – 358feet) and statue (18m 59feet) are tall enough to exemplify a man with towering principles…
…but I prefer his Malecón statue, and think he would be happier there – overseeing the harbour - not here amidst government offices.
Returning to Habana Viejo, the Old Town horse drawn carriages wait for the evening visitors and here a carriage driver was relaxing in the shade…
I was reminded of the Spanish Proverb:
How beautiful it is to do nothing,
and then to rest afterward
More Havana pages:
Havana Capitol Building
Havana Classic Cars
Havana Political Demonstration
Havana Fish and Philosophy
Havana Street Water-Skiing
Havana Back Street Rambles
Havana Agricultural Fair
Havana The Art of Dominoes
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